Milking Stand / Stanchion

Building a Stanchion or Milking Stand.
Our goddaughter Shelby and her husband Dave gave us three baby goats last November.

Miss Claudia Milk Mouth, Gretel Buckleberry and Fetus

They are now grown and my youngest goat, the beautiful Miss Claudia Milk Mouth is going to have a baby!

We’re in the middle of a kitchen remodel along with all the other zillion chores around the farm so I just haven’t gotten around to building a milking stand. 
A milking stand is used to immobile a goat for milking and for hoof trimming and vet visits.  The same type of stand can also be used for sheep and sheep sheering.

Most of the stands I have seen are all pretty much the same rectangle shape, with 4 legs, and an area to secure the animal’s head.  A milking stand can cost quite a bit of money, like this one from Hoegger's
Even though it says it is the ultimate in milking and grooming convenience, having a price tag of $320.00, may be all you need to try building one yourself.

You can purchase new lumber, but I save leftover lumber from previous projects and I salvage any lumber I come across, so my goat milking stand is made of leftover scraps of wood.  Total cost is drywall screws and my time.
Most of my projects I am by myself but this time I had help from my daughter Alexis and her boyfriend Thomas.  Having extra hands holding or cutting the wood is a big time savor!

What you'll need:

Constructing the stand is pretty basic and supplies are simple:  

• 2 x 4’s
• 1 x 4’s 
• 4 x 4’s (if desired) 
• ¾ inch plywood 
• drywall screws
• saw
• jig saw 
• battery operated or electric screwdriver

Make the Frame:

Screw the frame together

I started by making the frame.

If you are uncertain about the length and width to make the stand, just do as I did.  Measure the length of a goat! 

My frame is basically 2 feet by 3 feet.  A little larger than a goat to make sure the goat has enough room to move around without falling off the sides.

After cutting 2 - 2x4’s to 24 inches long and 2 - 2x4’s to 36 inches long,  I drywall screwed the frame together, the 24 inch pieces are the ends and 36 inch pieces as the sides.  After screwing it together the frame measures 24 inches by 39 inches.  

Make the Legs:

The height of my stand is based on me sitting in a chair and making sure the goat udder is at about eye level. I cut a piece of 4 x 4 post into 4 -24 inches long pieces, creating the legs.  Next I used drywall screws to fasten the legs into each corner of the frame. 

Attach the legs into each corner of the frame

You can use 2 x 4’s for the legs if you do not have 4 x 4’s.  I used 4 x 4’s for added strength.  My buck (male goat) is big and heavy so this stand will need to support his weight.  Also, the 4 x 4 post is pressure treated which will help protect the legs from rotting.

Frame with legs attached.  Next attach the 3/4 inch plywood to form a platform.

Plywood Platform:
After the legs were attached to the frame I measured the ¾ plywood to make the platform or floor of the stand.  The three quarter inch plywood should be cut to cover the top of the frame. Attach it to the frame using drywall screws.

Frame, legs and platform completed

Guess what?  The stand is nearly finished!

Neck / Head Restraint:
The next part of the stand is the frame or neck/head board to keep the goat on the stand. 

1 x 4's cut 24 inches long to begin

From a 1 x 4 x 8 foot board, cut two pieces of wood 24 inches long and screw them upright from the frame. 

Next add support boards across the two upright 1 x 4 boards. I used 2 x 4's cutting three boards, 24 inches long. 

The neck/head boards will have one stationary 1 x 4 by 48 inch board and a second 1 x 4 x 48 inch board that pivots.  This will allow the goats head in, then close around her neck, not allowing her head to come back through.

Before attaching these two boards, I took a jig saw and cut out part of each board on one side, allowing for the width of a goat’s neck, but too narrow for a head to fit through. 

The area that was cut out was about 12 inches in length and about 3 to 4 inched deep, which will allow me to use this same stand on slightly taller or shorter goats. 

Attach 2 x 4 braces across for added strength

To allow one of the 1 x 4 x 48 inch boards to pivot,  use a bolt, washers and a locking nut.

One stationary and one pivoting board

To finish I still need to attach a clasp or clip to keep the two neck / head pieces together but that will require a trip to the hardware store, so for now I am using a piece of baling twine. 

Miss Claudia and the homemade milking stand

To keep the goat occupied, it is a good idea to attach a container or bucket to the milking stand and feed the goat while she is being milked.

A small feed container attached to the milking stand to keep the goat occupied.

To have a more polished look paint or stain the milk stand.  You may also want to add a ramp. 
I have found that goats are climbers and jumpers so all that is really needed to get her up on the stand is to fill the feed container!

Since building this stand, we have been blessed with our first kid (baby goat) born on the farm, and I am feeling so blessed to have witnessed the birth of a healthy beautiful little doeling. 

 

Little Sofia Milkwhite

What recent DIY projects have you done?

Elizabeth

Goat Birthing

Building A Hay Feeder

Keeping Goats